Nepal

Fear and Faith

El Salvador '94

Spiritual adventure seekers who have been contacting Studio Jai about the October ’11 Yoga Journey to Nepal are expressing concerns about safety, especially since Bin Laden’s assassination and the world news’ focus on possible retaliations. Studio Jai has no way of predicting when the next offense against man’s true nature of peace and kindness will occur. Without a doubt, Americans have been reluctant to travel very far from home for more than a decade now, and this is really too bad because there is a lot of beauty and diversity to be expereinced and shared in the world.

As you know from the “About Studio Jai” page on the website, I have been living internationally for 15 years. It so happens that I worked in El Salvador ’93-’95, arriving only a few months after their civil war ended so I witnessed the first elections in which the FMLN was allowed a political platform against the Arena party. It was a tense environment, and I didn’t always sleep well, but sixteen years later what I remember is trekking through jungles up steep volcanic hills through coffee fincas with the local tourism department; picnicing at sulphur springs, camping, music, laughter. I remember driving down to the coast every weekend to surf off the black sands and drink beer and eat ceviche. I remember Sunday nights at the pupuserias– man, I miss pupusas. I remember dancing– lots and lots of dancing late into the night into early morning, and the frustration of my dance partners that I kept moving my shoulders and not my hips.

And what does El Salvador have to do with Nepal? Everything. It was my first international teaching post, and my scariest, and it opened-up a whole new world of adventure for me. I learned that to experience other cultures, we must take risks. We have to open our hearts and TRUST. This ability to trust strengthens us and allows us to realize that the common denominator too often driving the human experience is fear, when it should be courage. As Swami Satchidananda says, “Fear and faith don’t go together.”

El Salvador was one of the poorest countries in the world while I was there (the free trade zones hadn’t opened yet). Not many people had shoes or food. On one “holiday,” the hotel I stayed at literally had nothing to serve me except a boiled chicken and plantana (every meal for 3 days), but it was one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever visited. So, El Salvador was the beginning for me. And traveling in Nepal was the end.

Completing 4 years at an American school in Qatar, I left my teaching career and headed to India and Nepal. I had traveled in both countries extensively during various school holidays (short flight from Qatar) and gradually became aware that deepening my yoga practice and trekking the 21 day Annapurna Circuit was what I needed to do next in life. So, I did it. Completely different cultures than El Salvador (well, every train stop feels like a different culture in India!), without quite the zest of barefoot dancing to Latino music, but equally poor and willing to survive, Nepal is a country I will return to again and again.

Nepal was never conquered– NEVER– it is unique in that aspect. The spirit is of the wind, the Himalayas, hard work, simplicity, family, and religion. The underlying hum is of compassion. The Nepalese embrace Hinduism and Buddhism without friction– many practice a little of both and intermix. And, there is still the mystique of Shamanismm as well. Despite the well-tread trails through the mountains, the villages and clothing and food and customs of the people remain timeless. The Maoist rebels are no longer active– they have been integrated into the political system. The occasional bandha(strike) is only a mild disruption. Current US Embassy reports on travelling there are no different, or even improved, over the last 6 months.

Of course, Studio Jai has taken every precaution toward a safe journey– private tourist vehicles, a well-established trekking company, etc. And we will not take risks that endanger our clients, but it’s true, that choosing to leave the security of your own backyard is a risk, no matter where you go. Life is a risk. But, experiencing life is a joy. My concern about the October Yoga Journey to Nepal is not world politics, but the fuel prices! Currently, roundtrip airfare from Chicago is equal to the entire 2 week all inclusive package Studio jai is offering! Now, THAT’S scary.

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Annapurna Circuit Trail: Entry 2

 

Lunch in Bahundanda after a steep climb of 400m. Interesting Shiva temple with a stone cobra encircling the black lingham, its hood opened, upper body raised as in protection. Highlights today: again the river, waterfalls, butterflies…at one point it seemed I was walking into a blue puddle of fluttering, shimmering butterflies; at another point yellow flickered about my feet. While resting on a granite ledge overlooking the canyon and terraced farms, a troupe of monkeys frolicked nearby, swinging in the low trees and plucking soy beans. They were golden color, small, muscular monkeys.

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Annapurna Circuit Trail: Entry 1

 

Follow the Annapurna Circuit Trail (ACT), 21 days walking in the Nepal Himalayas.  Walk with Studio Jai in a series of authentic trail entries, but in random order, so check the elevation to match the descriptions to villages, vistas, and environment. Enjoy the trail, and let the journey be yours– October 9-22 2011 Studio Jai Yoga Journey to Nepal.

2710m, gain of 510m, 12 kms. walked.

Today’s trail was gorgeous! Hardwood forests, pine, paths lined by split-rail or stonewalls; most of the way following a canyon with streams of light casting reds and patches of bright green through the dark sky. More buckwheat meadows, golden today, not the blossoming pink of yesterday.

The day began by spinning the giant prayer wheel and a row of smaller ones on the mani wall exiting Danaqyu chanting the Buddhist mantra, “OM MANI PADME HUNG,” then just around the first bend and over a wooden footbridge the air was suddenly fragrant with freshly-cracked corn from the water-driven mill. Then up, up, up to Tamang for a tea break and on to Thanchowk for lunch. A sweet, old stone village; I would have been happy to stay there if the skies had been clear; supposedly a great vista point.

The trail was slightly descending then level for the rest of the afternoon– lots of horses, cows, a frisky colt, and two cute little kids in blue. A checkpoint in Koto, then only 2 kms to this friendly, clean Tibetan-Buddhist guesthouse with nearly proper walls and a softer pillow than last night.

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Blizzard ’11

Snow Shadows

Last night the hawk was screeching, 20-30mph winds with gusts up to 50mph. Freezing fog. Temps dropping 40 degrees below freezing. I snuggled deeper into a thick cocoon of flannel, wool, cotton weave and 2 quilts.

I actually thought of Little House on the Prairie. I imagined snow drifts sweeping 2nd floor windows; entire small dwellings buried. Indeed, there was cumulative 20” of snow by morning and the neighborhood was a white-out, even plows were out of commission.

An ardent reader as a child, I adored the Laura Ingalls Wilder series. Thinking of punishing mid-west U.S.A. winters led to teepees and igloos, then to homeless seeking shelter, then to my friends in Nepal. They don’t have a thermostat to turn up a notch or two for additional comfort. They don’t have government-funded energy assistance programs to help finance gas and electric through the winter. My thoughts turned to gratitude and a list began: shelter, gas heat, food in the freezer, mobile phone, family nearby, friends nearby–

wonderful new friends in Kenosha! healers, artists, musicians, studio-owners, teachers, nurses, therapists, community workers– kind, kind, new friends.

A surprise phone call from my Jin Shin Jyutsu mentor.

A supportive email from my Swamiji.

Bowling with my nephew.

Dancing with my niece.

Laughter with my sister.

Car tips from my brother-in-law.

Sunshine hearts from my parents in Florida.

Vintage Bakery care package from brother and sister-in-law.

Faith. Digging deep enough to face the fear with light. To walk in LIGHT.

Today I decided to send my Nepalese friends energy assistance for the winter, funded by Studio Jai. Thank you all my friends all over the world! I am grateful. A blizzard of gratitude.

http://www.hlf.org.np/index.php?id=2

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Father Spirit

Family Reunion, Anadu 2009

September 2009, I was enjoying the view from Mike’s Restaurant, Lakeside Pokhara, waiting for a launch across Phewa Tal to Anadu, eager to reunite with the family I had stayed with 2 years prior. Then, a pair of hands blindfolded me from behind, a gentle clasping accompanied by laughter. “Raj!” As I turned to stand and hug the boy, I was greeted by a grinning young-man, a foot taller, glasses replaced with contacts, a new air of confidence his aura. At Raj’s side were a beautiful woman and her grown daughter, followed by the son assisting the father. They had just returned from paragliding and were also staying in Anadu. Easy had called Raj to tell him I had arrived and not to row across without me.

Quickly the story unfolded of this Virginia family. Mother and daughter had arranged to meet father and son in Pokhara for a family holiday on the lake. The daughter was soon to marry. The son, Jonathan, was on an extensive journey with his dad, Peter, who was degenerating from Huntington’s disease. The father and son were motorcycling through India and Nepal! The week staying at Anadu with this Virginia family deepened my faith in God. The guesthouse family (Raj, Easy, and Shiva) welcomed the challenge of helping with Peter and his physical limitations. They were amazing. And Peter and his family welcomed me into their family, as Jonathan read aloud from Shantaram, and we spent long lazy mornings into afternoons reveling in the shade of Easy’s gardens, mesmerized by the ever-magnificent Himalayan vista. Whenever Peter was helped by anyone, he would say, “God bless you,” and he meant it, his conviction clear.

As I’d watch Peter, I could only marvel at how the human spirit truly soars despite the limitations of the body. And without a doubt, it was their deep faith that allowed this father and son to take a journey of this magnitude– into remote regions, over rutted-out roads, high-altitudes, often not knowing what they might encounter around the next bend. Father Spirit chronicles this journey www.fatherspirit.com and also offers a unique glimpse of Anadu and the equally special Nepalese family who run more than a guesthouse, but a home, a place of strength and beauty– a place with a heart.

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Nepal Trekking Yoga Adventure

Studio Jai bookings for the Nepal Yoga Journeys 2011 are now open! A teahouse trek on the Ghorepani/Poon Hill Loop, followed by a week-long Integral Yoga retreat on Lake Pokhara… discover the top of the world and deepen your understanding of harmony and health.

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